Past Events: 2007
July 29th: Sustainable Seafood Salon & Feast <Press>
Past Events: 2006
January 22: Cracking the true story about Crab
April 6th: Terra Madre Fundraiser with Michael Pollen
July 23rd: Seafood Salon & Feast
September 24th: Introduction to home Canning
October 15th: Heritage Harvest: Renewing America's Food Traditions
Slow Food Russian River
in collaboration with: Chefs Collaborative ~ Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch ~ UC Davis Bodega Marine Lab ~ Seaweed Café ~ Barndiva Restaurant ~ Drakes Bay Oyster Farm
Presented A Sustainable Seafood Salon & Feast on
July 29th, 2007
Slow Food Russian River held its second Sustainable Seafood Salon and Feast at the Bodega Marine Laboratory and Seaweed Café in Bodega Bay, CA, to highlight the importance of responsible fishing practices, sustainable food systems and ocean conservation.
Making the right choices at the seafood counter can be a murky proposition. Farmed or imported? Fresh or local? Can it really be organic? Participants came to the Sustainable Seafood Salon to GET SMART about the state of seafood in Northern California.
Part I: Seafood Salon at UC Davis Bodega Marine Lab (1:00 – 4:30) EVENT SOLD OUT
The Lab is located at 2099 Westside Road in Bodega Bay directions.
We joined a panel of seafood industry experts and stakeholders to discuss how we can contribute to creating a world in which our oceans’ ecosystems are evolving and producing in a truly sustainable manner. Guests enjoyed samples of sustainable seafood creations and local wines including Oysters from Drakes Bay Oyster Farm, Fresh off the boat ceviche from Barndiva Restaurant, and a variety of local smoked fish from California Smoke House. Guests also had a chance to peruse the information tables including informative information from Chefs Collaborative, Seafood Watch, Institute for fisheries resources, Save our wild salmon, Trout University, Food and Water Watch, and Occidental Arts and Ecology Center.
Our Speakers:
Paul Johnson (Emcee) is the owner of Monterey Fish Market, which he founded in 1979. The company includes a wholesale market operated off of San Francisco's Pier 33 as well as a retail outlet in Berkeley. Johnson promotes sustainably captured fresh fish, encourages ocean conservation and he believes that maintaining our oceans as a sustainable resource for future generations is vitally important. more
Jackie Martine, Chef and Co-owner of the outstanding Bodega Bay Restaurant Seaweed Cafe. French-born chef Jackie is obsessive about the seasonal-regional credo of the Slow Food movement, and she exclusively uses organic ingredients sourced from farms within a 30-mile radius of the restaurant. To truly honor the Café's commitment to local terroir, chef Jackie Martine and her partner, Melinda Montayne, comb the fields, farms and vineyards west of Highway 101 in search of ingredients. For seafood, they buy directly from the bay's fishermen more
Susan L. Williams, is a Professor of Evolution and Ecology at the University of California at Davis and the Director of the Bodega Marine Laboratory. Her research focuses on nearshore marine environments. Susan is dedicated to applying science to marine conservation and environmentally sustainable utilization of marine resources. She regularly provides briefings and testimony on how to prevent the impacts of marine invasive species, including through best practices for aquaculture and the aquarium trade.
more
Sheila Bowman is Outreach Manager for the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program. She works with over 140 aquarium, zoo, business and restaurant partners nationwide to develop programs to educate their customers and promote ocean-friendly seafood in their communities. more
Jacquelyn Ross is from the Southern Pomo and Coast Miwok people of Sonoma and Marin Counties. She is a traditional fisherwoman, food gatherer, and basketry student. more
Kevin Lunny, from Drake’s Bay Family Farms, reveals the magic of oyster farming as a sustainable agricultural practice. In Marin County, Lunny’s family runs the Historic G Ranch; a certified organic grass fed beef operation, as well as the oyster farm, which is a perfect example of sustainable food production. more
Joe McGarry, Executive Chef for Bon Appetit Management Co. & Board Member of Chefs Collaborative. Joe will show us that sustainability can be a profitable model for success, as he has proven with Bon Appetit, overseeing kitchens in 8 states, featuring seasonal goods from within 150 miles of their kitchens. more
Jil Hales, owner of Healdsburg’s acclaimed restaurant and event space, Barndiva, will share how she has taken sustainability to new levels in the complex business of food service. Jil is committed to using the finest organic seasonal foods all sourced from local farmers and artisan food providers. more
Brock Dolman, Director of Occidental Arts and Ecology Center's (OAEC’s) WATER Institute and Permaculture Program, and he co-directs OAEC's Wildlands Biodiversity Program. more
Part II: A Sustainable Feast and Fundraiser celebrating our local sustainable seafood hosted by Seaweed Café and Slow Food Russian River (6:00 – 9:00) 1580 East Shore Drive, Bodega Bay. We Celebrated the bounty Northern California’s coastal waters have to offer at our Sustainable Seafood FEAST. Seaweed Café is a sustainable, eco-friendly, locavore haven. Chefs Jackie Martine and Melinda Montanye prepared a sumptuous, four-course, celebrating the delicious sustainable seafood from our local waters.
A portion of the proceeds benefit Slow Food USA's RAFT (Renewing America's Food Traditions) programs in support of sustainable seafood initiatives and Slow Food Russian Rivers local programs.
Past Events: 2006
January 22: Cracking the true story about Crab
April 6th: Terra Madre Fundraiser with Michael Pollen
July 23rd: Seafood Salon & Feast
September 24th: Introduction to home Canning
October 15th: Heritage Harvest: Renewing America's Food Traditions
Cracking the true story of Crab –
A Winter’s Delicacy and a yearly controversy
A Meal and Conversation with North Bay Crab Industry Stakeholders
The Slow Food Russian River convivium hosted a crab-dinner and stakeholder panel discussion on the issues surrounding North Coast crab fishing. The event was held on Sunday afternoon, January 22 at Willowside Hall in Santa Rosa.
The North Bay is known for many exquisite food products from apples to Zinfandel wine, but perhaps none evokes more mouth-watering anticipation than crab. They are still caught by local fisherman in small boats, where skill, weather and stewardship combine to determine the scale of bounty.
In recent years, issues surrounding quotas, price, and the sustainability of the crab fleet have made the news. The crabber's strike this past November was publicly explained as an impasse over-pricing with a single processor and impacted thousands of Bay Area Thanksgiving dinners. But the reasons behind this controversy are much more complicated and will be explored at the pre-dinner, panel discussion.
We had a delicious meal that included local crab, seasonal organic artichokes and salad, local artisan breads, beer and wine. The feast was preceded by a moderated discussion with 3 industry stakeholders in the effort to build a sustainable crab fishery.
The Panel :
Tom Moore, California Department of Fish & Game, Bodega Bay. Tom is a 25-year employee and is the North Coast’s head-biologist for Fish & Game.
Chuck Wise, North Coast crab fisherman and President of the Pacific Coast Federation of Fisherman. PCFFA is the west coast’s largest and most politically active commercial fishermen trade association.
Tom Worthington, Co-owner Monterey Fish Market, one of the Bay Area's most sustainable fish distributors.
Michael Dimock, Chairman of the Board, Slow Food USA, will moderate the panel.
Schedule
2:30 pm Appetizers & Aperitif
3:00 pm Panel Discussion
4:00 pm Meal
Terra Madre Fundraiser
with Michael Pollan
at
Silverado Brewing Company in
St. Helena, CA
Content and images by Joanne White of Fork & Bottle
The Invitation:
 “Join best-selling author and former Harpers Magazine executive-editor, Michael Pollan, for a Slow Food Wine Country dinner and discussion of his new book "The Omnivore's Dilemma".
The dinner discussion focused on local vs. organic food procurement, the increasing challenges of industrial foods, and the important philosophical alternative of the Slow Food movement.
All proceeds were to benefit the Slow Food Terre Madre sustainable-agricultural conference in Turin, Italy this Fall, and to underwrite the travel for Mexican farmers and producers. "The Omnivore's Dilemma" was available for signing and purchase.”
Michael Pollan’s talk about his book was truly inspiring. The marriage of food to petroleum was very much a recurring theme in his talk – how the globalization of food had changed the food chain. He also touched on Big Business Organics, mentioning the opening of Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s across from the Greenmarket in Union Square, NYC and how the grass fed beef at Whole Foods was from New Zealand while Hudson Valley raised beef was simultaneously being sold at the Greenmarket
Dinner Menu
All dishes were created using only natural and organic ingredients gathered primarily from local producers.
 Goat’s Leap Eclipse Cheese
Model Bakery Organic Pain au Levain
The Eclipse was served at almost room temperature bringing out the smooth creaminess and the almost mineral characteristics. Perfect paired with the bread or alone! Eclipse is a small round of goat cheese which is covered in ash and the natural white rind forms on top of the ash. It also has a thin layer of ash through the center making a pretty presentation when sliced. The round is garnished with a star anise.
 Grilled Salinas Artichoke w/ Forni Brown Greens, Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette w/ McEvoy Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Niman Ranch Bacon & Pt. Reyes Dipping Sauce
I really didn’t realize how amazing bacon and artichoke go together. Add in the garlic and this dish was made to be savored. I don’t recall having Pt. Reyes Blue Cheese dipping sauce before, but it was memorable and I will seek it out!
 Niman Ranch Heirloom Pork Chamorro Sauteed Star Route Chard & Roasted Tomatillo Chili Verde, Organic Giusto’s Polenta w/ Vella Dry Jack Cheese
I can’t tell you how delicious this dish was. The pork was like pork osso buco (Chamorro means leg of pork) and was falling off the bone. All the elements were in perfect balance. The Chili Verde was the perfect compliment to the polenta and pork. I can still taste it. The marrow in the pork bone had melted and a bit could be scooped out.
 Guittard Chocolate Porter Cake
House Caramel & Straus Dairy Whipped Cream. Garnished w/ Harbin Mint.
A basic chocolate cake but perfectly moist with great accompaniments. Great! I personally have an issue with Guittard as their white chocolate has partially hydrogenated oil as an ingredient.
The dinner was enjoyed with Silverado Brewing Company’s Blonde and Pale Ales and wine from Atalon Winery, La Jota Vineyard, V. Sattui Winery, OnTheEdge Winery, Titus Vineyards and Galen Cellars.
Each table was supplied with a selection of bottles and beer was served in pitchers. We sampled Titus Vineyards' "2004 The Ruby Wine Company" a Rose made from Cabernet Franc, Titus Vineyards Zinfandel, 1990 V. Sattui Zinfandel (which was surprisingly drinkable) and the 2000 Atalon Cabernet Sauvignon & the 2002 La Jota Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. I tried the IPA and the Amber from the Silverado Brewing Company and enjoyed the Amber and would recommend it.
Sustainable Seafood Salon July 2006
Gastronomique Smells Fishy. Content and images by
Cedric Westphal
 The Slow Food Russian River Convivium came down to San Francisco Sunday July 23rd for a Sustainable Seafood Salon and Feast, A panel discussion on the issues of sustainability in fishing in the Northern California coast was held at the Ferry Building and the Feast was held at Hayes Street Grill. You guys remember we narrowly escaped having no local wild salmon on our plates this year, and it is only one example of fishing going awry. Here's a riddle. You invite a fisherman, his lobbyist, and his sales channel, ie. a fishmonger and a restaurateur, and what do you get? Not an all knives out fight, for sure. More like hugs and kisses, and lots and lots of fish knowledge. The congregation of the above-mentioned people was assembled to discuss sustainable seafood at the invite of the Slow Food convivium of the Russian River. From the Latin: con (with, together), and vivium (to live), that's much warmer than "chapter" or "group." It's all a big family. Maybe they all came down from West Sonoma in the same minivan.
Panel members were moderator Patricia Unterman, chef and owner of Hayes Street Grill and Examiner food critic as well; Steve Fitz, a salt-of-the-earth Half Moon Bay sand dabs fisherman; Tom Worthington, from Monterey Fish Market; Zeke Grader, from the Pacific Coast Federation of Fishermen's Association; and Sheila Bowman, outreach coordinator for Seafood Watch, a program of the Monterey Aquarium to educate about sustainable fishing. We have to say we are a bit grumpy they provided a panel with only first rate, interesting, opinionated people and no one to make fun of. The Panel included sustainable seafood creations from Hayes Street Grill, Seaweed Cafe in Bodega Bay and Barndiva Restaurant in Healdsburg, all washed down with wines from Organic Vintners.
All members of the panel were pretty much on the same page, but this does not mean that their message is not important. To sum it up: eat seafood, but be cautious about what you eat. Some fish is harvested in a sustainable manner, which means that there is no risk of depleting the stocks in the long run, and some is not. Just say no to Chilean seabass. Whenever you purchase fish, vote with your wallet and only get the one that is sustainable. And check Seafood Watch for updated information on what you can eat.
A good rule of thumb: eat local as much as you can. We are blessed here in San Francisco to have fish a'plenty in the water licking our toes. Hard-learned lessons (California overfishing pretty much wiped out sardines in the 50s) and fishing regulations, which Steve Fitz described with a despair-tainted common sense ("There is some guy in Washington following the trace of the GPS on my boat") pretty much ensure that coastal waters are protected from overharvesting.
Another good rule: be curious about what fish you eat. People mostly want to eat salmon, tuna and shrimp. But there are other stocks which are under-utilized: say, herring, sardines, anchovies. These are delicious, but suffer from a PR deficit, something we experienced first hand when we brought fresh sardines to a BBQ only to anger our hosts, being asked in essence if we really really wanted to stink the sh*t up in the place. Zeke suggested serving those under-appreciated species in schools, because --a win-win twofer-- we could educate the palate, and "we know that with fish oil, kids would pay attention." Squid used to be one of these ostracized fish, and look, now it's on every menu.
Eating local won't get you no farmed salmon: a law was passed in CA to ban ocean rearing of non-indigeneous species or genetically modified ones. The panel unanimously acknowledges that farming was good for some species (trout, tilapia, catfish, shellfish like clams, oysters and mussels) but not so good for the Atlantic salmon. Salmon is carnivorous, so one has to fish some feed for the salmon farm, a very wasteful idea. Stay away from that farmed stuff.
Of course, warned Zeke, such sound environmental law will be debated by, who else, oil companies, who are trying to get their connections in the administration to allow for pisciculture at the site of their old oil platforms. These are outside state waters, and the oil companies could get out of their leases without removing the platforms, a costly procedure. We know how much Texaco is hurting right now, so there is no doubt they will find a friendly hear in the White House. Zeke pointed out that recreational fishermen in Texas who fish near oil rigs have 60 times the level of mercury in their organs, which is not a good thing. Maybe farming fish there is not such a swell idea.
If someone tries to sell you some organic fish, you must know that there is no USDA certification for fish and seafood. There is no organic seafood in California, and it is illegal to advertise any. Also, be wary of the Marine Stewardship Council label, according to the panel members, all advocates for the little guys -- it is a front from Unilever and other heavy weights of the agroindustry to act virtuous. It's the same as Budweiser telling you not to drink and drive, or Exxon telling you they are investing in clean energies. The MSC label is granted to those who meet only 80% of the label criteria, and once given, the next review is 5 years down the line. Plus, if one wants to bring up a complaint to the Council, one must pony up $3,000, a sure way to curtain dissent from the little people.
The last lesson we'll share with you is that: you must protect the environment, not just prevent overfishing. Damming the San Joaquin river had California shut down the salmon fishery in 1956. Polution in the Klamath bassin this year has strongly reduced the salmon season. Protecting the habitat is a good idea, both for us and for the fish.
 Well, actually the very last lesson of the Sustainable Seafood meeting was thus: you can eat some very good fish at Hayes Street Grill, where a fundraiser was being hosted for Slow Food Russian River afterwards. To list: Monterey Bay anchovies, lightly fried and dipped in ailoi; Monterey Bay Calamari, still lukewarm when topping a decadent tomato bruschetta (picture right); a halibut carpaccio with a drizzle of the most flavorous olive oil; a grilled sardine, rich and fresh, with none of the strong taste of the low-rate versions; a buttery-as-hell whole sand dab with just a bit of crisped skin, which was just the best fish we have eaten in a long while; and a white sea bass filet under a butter sauce on a bed of succotash. This was a special menu for the fundraiser, but the sand dabs for instance, fished by panel member Steve Fitz himself, are on the regular menu ($21.95 with French fries). They are sustainable, and they are amazingly delicious.
Hayes Street Grill
320 Hayes Street @ Franklin
tel: 863-5545
Other Articles | Help save our oceans, seafood, and environment
Introduction to Home Canning
A canning demonstration at the home of members,
Keith Borglum and Diane Cate.
What
Keith Borglum and Diane Cate are experienced amateur home-canners, and winners of dozens of Sonoma County Fair and Harvest Fair canning awards, plus Best of Show and the Ball (jar) Canning Award at the 2004 Sonoma County Harvest Fair, at which point they retired from competitive canning.
This event is to provide an introduction to the home-canning of hot-pack acid-based vegetable produce, the safest kind of canning; in this case probably herbed tomato sauce or vegan stew, depending on the crop readiness in their gardens and orchard. The sauce will be already cooked and ready for canning at the start of the event, since the cooking process is typically done overnight. Attendees will learn how to do home canning from start to finish. Jars of finished sauce will not be released to attendees because they need overnight to cool and allow the tops to seal.
The canning event went well. There were approximately 8 "workers" in
attendance who rotated through all the different duties of canning. A
separate crew of pickers and cooks prepared the sauces in advance of
the event.
Quetzal Farms donated some cases of Early Girl tomatoes, a variety of
sweet peppers, two kinds of baby squash, and some eggplants. This
supplemented 5 varieties of tomatoes that we provided.
We also did a tasting of a number of types of Asian pears, augmented
by some tasty hors d'oeuvres and wine brought by attendees and some
Cajun chow-chow made from the Quetzal eggplant, peppers, tomatoes,
and onions.
We canned two 32-quart batches of sauce; heritage-tomato marinara
with sweet red peppers and garlic, and a multi-tomato-based
double-chocolate peanut butter enchilada sauce.
There were enough leftover veggies and apples from my orchard that
everyone was able to take home a fresh cornucopia.
Others can wander the organic gardens and orchards with approximately 100 varieties of fruit.
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